Pets, Police and Prison.
A Visit to Tai Kwun.
09.07.2026 - 11.07.2026
Well, I know most people wouldn't bother to mention this in their blog, but I spotted a beautiful lizard on my way to the supermarket the other day and I just had to stop and photograph it. Truth be told, I have a bit of a thing about lizards. I just love them.

Lizard.

Lizard.
When I did reach the shops, I noticed that all the art work in the North Plaza had been redone to incorporate a pet friendly theme. The pet pictures were interspersed with pictures of places to see in Discovery Bay, such as the white wedding chapel, the ice-skating rink, the golf course and the tower. I wasn't surprised to see a pet theme as, Discovery Bay has gone a bit pet crazy, we even have a pet service bus nowadays.

Cats.

Dogs.

North Plaza tower.

Cats and cake.

Dogs at our ice-skating rink.

The white wedding chapel.

The golf course.
Next day I had to go to Central to get Peter medicine and to spend the birthday voucher that the birthday girls gave me in November. Yes, I know, I'm a bit slow.
I thought I might as well do something enjoyable while I was there and decided to go up to the top of the escalator street, but on route I got waylaid by Tai Kwun. I have been here many times, but this time I decided to do it really thoroughly and ended up staying here for ages, so I didn't go up any higher. On my way up the escalators to Tai Kwun I passed trams, pawn shop signs and Tung Sin Tan Temple, a Taoist temple known for its Chinese architecture.

Trams and pawn shop signs.

Tung Sin Tan temple.
Tai Kwun means 'big station'. It's a collection of preserved historical buildings, all with a connection to law and order.
These buildings include the Central Police Station Compound, which was once the main centre for law enforcement in British Hong Kong. It consisted of several different buildings. The Police Headquarters Block where members of the public could report a crime faced onto Hollywood Road. Next to it there were accommodation blocks for married inspectors, single inspectors and married sergeants. Behind it there was a large open air parade ground. Behind the parade ground was a police barracks. To the right of the parade ground was the armoury.

The Police Headquarters Block.

The Police Headquarters Block from the other side.

Former Police Barracks Building.

Former Police Barracks Building.

The old armoury is now a restaurant.
Also located here is the Central Magistracy. Before any Magistracies were built in Hong Kong, court sessions were held in the house of Hong Kong's first chief magistrate, William Caine. The first purpose built Magistracy opened in 1847, but it was badly built, too small and had very poor acoustics. A new building was required and after a long delay, the current Magistracy building was completed in 1914, opening in 1915.
Victoria Prison is another of the old buildings that can be found here. It consisted of several prison halls from A Hall to F Hall and a prison yard where prisoners could exercise. Several famous people have been imprisoned here, including Vietnamese revolutionary, Ho Chi Minh, who was imprisoned here in the 1930's.
By 2006, none of these buildings were serving their original functions and it was decided that, instead of demolishing these listed heritage buildings, they should be converted into an arts and cultural hub. This restoration and transformation cost HK$3.8 billion and was completed in 2018. Nowadays Tai Kwun has many functions. There are several lovely restaurants and bars here. It's possible to wander around the old buildings for free and learn something about their history and there are also places that house art exhibitions, work shops and events.
I started off at the main Parade Square, then headed into the Visitor Centre. There's a time line on display here, outlining the history of the buildings in Tai Kwun and there's a photographic display showing some of the duties police officers had in the past and significant historical events the police were involved in.

Chinese New Year Fair in Central in the early 1920's. Bit of crowd control needed here.

Police woman manually directing traffic at a busy intersection. She is standing in a traffic control booth, which was commonly referred to as a bird cage.

Police had to deal with this building on Wellington Street which collapsed during Typhoon Agnes.

The police also acted as fire fighters in early colonial Hong Kong. This is a fire at the former Hong Kong Hotel on January 1st 1926.

In 1967 riots broke out in Hong Kong. These began as a minor labour dispute among artificial flower makers in San Po Kong, but escalated into strikes, then anti-government protests. 51 people were killed in the riots and many bombs were planted by demonstrators.

The aftermath of The New Year's Eve crush in Lang Kwai Fong in 1993.
Some of the things on display here are quite shocking. There's a copy of a pass held by a Chinese person to allow him to go out at night. In the early days of British Colonial Hong Kong, white Europeans could go outside at any time, but Chinese people could not go outside after 9pm unless they carried a lantern and a special signed document. These extremely biased laws were known as The Light and Pass Regulations. These were removed in 1847, but were reinstated ten years later when there was an attempt, possibly by Qing imperial agents, to poison the British colonialists by putting arsenic into the bread at the Esing Bakery in Wan Chai. This mass poisoning attempt failed, as so much arsenic was added to the bread, it caused people to throw up and expel most of the poison from their bodies. The Light and Pass Regulations stayed in place after this incident until 1897. Failure to comply with these laws could result in a fine, imprisonment or a public flogging.

Night pass.
Another document on display was an enforced deportation order. One way of punishing criminals was to deport them to another British colony for a set period of time. Before they were deported, the convicted person was branded on their ear, so they would be noticed if they came back. Between 1844 and 1858 five hundred and seventy-six convicted criminals were deported from Hong Kong. Most were sent to Singapore or Penang.

Deportation order.
Another way of punishing people was to put them into leg stocks with a placard in front of them outlining their crime.

Prisoners in the stocks.
In addition to the photographs there are some police related relics such as: guns, shields and handcuffs.

Hats and shields.

Guns.

Handcuffs.
Next I headed upstairs into Victoria Prison. One of the blocks here has been restored to its original condition to show what the inside of the prison would have been like.

Inside a cell block of Victoria Prison.

Prison cell.

Prison uniform.
The barbed wire on top of some blocks has been retained. Prison blocks were interconnected by external stairways.

Barbed wire on the prison building.

External staircases.

External staircases.
This ladder store was always kept locked in case prisoners tried to escape.

Ladder store.
There was a prison chapel, but I don't think anything remains of it nowadays, except some coloured paint on the walls.

The prison chapel was inside here.
There was an exercise yard where prisoners could exercise at certain set times. Next to it there was also the laundry yard where prisoners were set to work cleaning their uniforms, police officers' uniforms and the prison bedding. In modern times the laundry yard has been converted into the laundry steps, a staircase with inbuilt seats. Next to it is a peaceful sitting out area surrounded by plants called Oasis #2.

D hall facing onto the exercise courtyard.

Laundry steps.

Laundry steps.

Oasis #2.
At times Victoria Prison was used as a holding centre for refugees. Some art work on display pays tribute to the poor people who were detained here as they tried to create a better life for themselves. One of these works is called 'Resilience' and was created by American artist Eric Okdeh in 2025. This work explores the stories of displaced people who passed through Hong Kong in the 1970s and 1980s. Eric Okdeh got former refugees, migrants and prison officers to contribute to the mural.

Vietnamese refugees.

'Resilience'.

'Resilience'.
I also visited the Magistracy Building where court cases were once heard. There were three entry points to this building depending on why you were there. If you were a Magistrate, you entered through the building's ornate facade. If you were a member of the public coming to watch a trial, you entered through the opposite more modest side of the building. If you were a defendant, you were brought up from the basement holding cells via an internal staircase.

Inside a courtroom.

Magistrates' entrance.

Prisoner's entrance.
There's a huge and interesting painting here called 'Regulated Chaos' by Eric Fok, 2024. It's so detailed I spent a lot of time examining it.

'Regulated Chaos'.

'Regulated Chaos'.

'Regulated Chaos'.

'Regulated Chaos'.
Tai Kwun isn't just a collection of heritage buildings though, there are new ultra-modern buildings here, too which hold art exhibitions and special events. One new building is The JC Contemporary Art Gallery and another is The JC Cube. JC stands for Jockey Club as the Hong Kong Jockey Club made a huge contribution to the regeneration of Tai Kwun.

Old and new The JC Cube.

The JC Contemporary Art Gallery.
I went into The JC Contemporary Art Gallery and looked at two exhibitions. The first was called 'Open the Box 2026: Pleasant Place' and was by Filipino artist Ryan Villamael. The idea here is that members of the public can pay $90 (about £9) and attend a workshop where they learn to create a paper canopy which is then hung up in the exhibition hall. Obviously this exhibit develops more and more over time as more and more people participate. I didn't join the workshop; I just explored the exhibition which is like wandering around inside a cool, dark forest.

'Pleasant Place'.

'Pleasant Place'.

Detail.

Detail.
Upstairs was 'An Intimate Surrender' by Berlin based Hong Konger Isaac Chong Wai. I'm going to cheat and just quote the description in the brochure to you, as I had very little understanding of what I was watching.
"This newly commissioned project takes the celebrated Chinese novel and film 'Farewell My Concubine' as a point of departure, and through spatial arrangements and corporeal language that balance rigidity and fluidity, together with intimate interactions among performers, the exhibition inspires audiences to reflect on gender performance both on and off stage."
Ok, well that said, to get there I continued up the rather photogenic spiral staircase inside The JC Contemporary Art Gallery.

Stairway.

Stairway.
At the top I was almost blinded by a spotlight which was part of the exhibition. Continuing past this I arrived at a large room with various glass or possibly plastic structures and a group of dancers performing in the middle of the room. The dancers could very obviously dance as they seemed to be able to bend in places I'm sure I don't even have joints, but they seemed to mainly be interlocked in groups and gazing out towards the audience with totally blank eyes, which made them actually rather scary. I watched the performance for a while. The audience either stood around the performers or sat on the floor. It was all very strange. Like the 'Pleasant Place' exhibition, this exhibition is supposed to change over time.

Spotlight.

Dancers.

Dancers.

Dancer.
Another side to Tai Kwun is that it is home to several beautiful restaurants. I haven't eaten in any of them, but they certainly look nice and unusually enough for Hong Kong, it's possible to eat outside in several of them.

Lok Cha Tea House.

Shiro, a Japanese restaurant located in the Armoury Building.

This one is just outside The Magistracy.

Don't ask me why, I just thought this umbrella holder outside one restaurant was cute.
I went back down the escalator and before going shopping, I looked around Central Market. While I love the regeneration of Tai Kwun, I have never liked how Central Market's regeneration turned out. I decided to wander around and try to like it, but for some reason I still don't. Oh well, never mind.

Street Food Street.

Shops.

Shop.

Another World Cup pop-up.

Another World Cup pop-up.

Restaurant.

Restaurant.

Staircase.
Then I went off and spent part of my birthday voucher. The highlight for me was a jar of green olives stuffed with jalapeno peppers. For Peter it was a tin of corned beef. Bliss all round!!!
Posted by irenevt 12:25 Archived in Hong Kong Comments (2)
















































































































































































































































