The Lantau Trail Section Twelve.
From Mui Wo to Pui O.
04.01.2024 - 05.01.2024
On Thursday I finally got Peter out for a picnic. It was quite pleasant and the weather was very nice. We walked down to Sienna Park and sat by the pond, where we had sandwiches and some drinks while watching the water birds. Then we moved on to a seat in front of our closed swimming pool, where we had cashew nuts and more drinks. After that we continued the walk all the way to the North Plaza. I need to keep Peter moving so that he doesn't get all weak again.
On Friday I decided to hike section twelve of the Lantau Trail. The whole of the Lantau Trail is seventy kilometres long and is divided into twelve different sections. I was starting right at the end of the trail and walking nine kilometres to the end of section eleven.
To get to the trail I took the 3M bus from Tung Chung to Mui Wo. I bought a big bottle of water from the seven eleven there and then headed off past the China Bear Pub along the waterfront. I then went right on Mui Wo Ferry Pier Road. I could see a small bay with many kayaks stacked up in piles. I went left behind the bay and continued down the road till I saw a trail marker on my right at the foot of a set of stairs. That was the start of my trail.
The first couple of kilometres of the trail are very easy. The trail is flat and wanders along the coastline. Part of the trail is also a mountain bike track, but I didn't see any cyclists. I did see an English speaking lady walking a black dog called, Midnight and she said hello to me. There were lovely coastal views here as well as views back towards the ferry pier.
At one point I crossed a little stream. The path eventually moved inland and started to go upwards. I came to a little pavillion where I stopped for a drink and enjoyed the views
The Lantau Trail has yellow sign posts and distance markers every five hundred metres. Some sign posts only show directions, others indicate times and distances.
After my short rest, I continued on the path upwards. I passed a tree with some kind of black berries on it and another small stream.
Eventually I came to a paved road where I went to the right. After going a short way, I looked for a Lantau Trail signpost on the left. This takes you back onto a dirt track, which was fairly easy to walk on, though some of it was a bit rocky.
Eventually I reached a building with a locked gate. From a distance it looked like my path was a dead end, but it actually continued around the left side of the building where there was a huge sign for Pui O painted onto the wall.
After a short time, I came to the barbecue area of Pak Fu Tin Camp Site. I knew that the hard part of the trail started immediately after this camp site, so I sat down and had a little rest and more water before doing it.
The next part of the hike is the climb up to the highest point of this section - Tai Ngau Wu Peak which is 275 metres high. The climb consists of three long steep staircases and some slopes. As I was going up the second set of stairs I bumped into the English speaking lady with Midnight the dog again. She had finished her hike and was on the way back. I misunderstood her and thought she had come back all the way from Pui O, but actually she was just coming back from Tai Ngau Wu Peak . Either way she was pretty fast. She told me she was in training, but I am not sure which race she is entering into. anyway it was nice that she stopped to give me some words of encouragement. I actually thought I was at the peak after the second set of stairs, but no such luck. The third set were probably the hardest too. Peter phoned me around this time and when I stopped to answer his call, a man behind me almost walked into me. I hadn't even realised he was there. He really gave me such a fright for which he was very apologetic.
At the end of the third staircase, I reached a transmitter station. I knew I was now at the top. The top of the hill is flat and there's a circular helipad here. I left the trail to walk to the trigonometric marker off to the right. There was a lovely view from here though it was a bit hazy in the heat.
After I was done with soaking up the view, I began my descent. I was feeling quite proud that I had made the ascent relatively easily, but I felt the jar of every single step down in my knees. The signs say this hike takes three hours. I took three and a half hours and I swear that extra time was in the agony of the descent. Of course, by this stage you can not give up. You have got to get down so you just keep going.
Fortunately, at one point I was distracted by a beautiful view over Shap Long Village. There were also some interesting rocks. One reminded me of a mushroom. There were also some great trees.
Walking on after enjoying the view, I saw an organic farm down below me. It was like a beacon of hope as it was placed at a level where I would be done with the agonising steps.
When I finally reached the bottom, I felt so relieved. I knew I had to go right, but there were good views of the organic farm to my left, plus there was an archway marking the start of the Chi Ma Wan Country Trail, yes yet another one for my to do list. The organic farm had a sign inviting people in to pick their own strawberries.
I noticed a woman with a camera snapping photos nearby and, being naturally nosey, went to see what she was looking at. It was a large group of water buffalo who had invaded a parking lot. We both snapped from a distance and laughed about the fact we were too scared to go closer, though most buffalo and cattle on Lantau are used to people and are seldom aggressive.
The next part of the trail involves walking along Chi Ma Wan Road which is a road that cars can go along and, while there aren't that many of them, there are enough to start making the hike less enjoyable. I kept going till I reached a Tin Hau Temple.
From here there were great views over Pui O Beach. Many blogs about this walk say from here wade across the river to the beach. It was tempting if you did it in summer, it's so hot you would dry off quickly, but now the thought of a bus journey home in dripping wet jeans was not appealing. This reminds me, many blogs say this is a great summer hike. I have to disagree. I managed the climb up to Tai Ngau Wu Peak, but I swear in summer this would have killed me. I guess it's all down to your fitness level.
Apparently Pui Beach is volcanic and has some black sand blended in, but from the temple it looked silvery and beautiful. In fact it looked much better than when you are actually on it. I sent pictures of it to several friends and some wondered where I was, as if I had gone off to some exotic overseas destination. Hong Kong is like this. It takes even locals by surprise.
I didn't wade across and in some ways I was glad. There were beautiful flowers near the temple. Then there were great views across the river that flowed onto the beach.
There was even a part with amazing trees growing into the walls. I loved their branching roots.
The Lantau Trail was now a road and I had to dodge cars every few minutes. I did not like this. I arrived at a pretty pavillion and saw a bridge leading over to a field. I had intended to stick to the trail, but was too tempted by the chance to avoid the traffic.
After crossing the field, I ended up on the main road where I could catch my bus back to Tung Chung, but I wanted to walk on the beach first, so I headed through the village till I reached a turn off. I passed a water buffalo painting on the wall.
I walked on a path through fields to the beach.
On the way I passed by lots more water buffalo.
I ended up at Treasure Island Restaurant. I noted that I was back on the trail I had abandoned.
On the beach there were several people sunbathing and several people swimming. I felt very tempted to join them, but I had to go home.
I had to wait a long time for the bus. Life is slower in Lantau than the rest of Hong Kong, but it had been a lovely day and it had inspired me to start hiking again.
one finished, only eleven more to go!
by Ils1976