Admiring Admiralty
The Asiatic Society and Hong Kong Park.
14.07.2021 - 14.07.2021
Today was the first day of my summer holiday, so I had a well deserved lie in, then headed to Admiralty. In the nineteenth century this area was a British military zone and was home to a number of barracks, such as: the Wellington Barracks, the Murray Barracks and the Victoria Barracks. It was also home to the Admiralty Dockyard. This area's English name comes from this dockyard. Whereas its Chinese name, Kam Chung, which means Golden Bell, comes from a gold coloured bell which was the timekeeping device of the Wellington Barracks. Admiralty Dockyard and large areas of the three barracks were later demolished and a new dockyard called Tamar was built on reclaimed land here.
I went to Admiralty primarily to visit the Hong Kong Asiatic Society which is located on Justice Drive near the British Consulate, but which, for some unknown reason, I had never even known existed until recently.
On the way I passed the Conrad Hotel. I noticed a man taking photos and thought, "There must be a good view from here. I'll check it out on my way back." I then noticed a huge statue in front of the hotel called Hong Kong People by American sculptor, Kirk Newman. This is a mishmash of: people running at top speed to get to work, old men taking their pet bird for a walk in its cage, doting mothers photographing their kids, people staring at their mobile phones, or talking on them and many more typical everyday scenarios.
After looking at the statue, I crossed the road and headed up the hill to the Asiatic Society. The Asiatic Society is an organisation that aims at encouraging interest in Asian arts, culture, science and literature. It was founded in 1847. Entry is free. The site contains a theatre, a gallery, a double decker bridge with views, a variety of statues, an amphitheater, gardens, a restaurant and a gift shop. I loved wandering around here looking at the art works, views and historical buildings.
First, I'll write a little about the sculptures.
The buildings that make up this arts centre formerly housed the explosives magazines of the Victoria Barracks. I was happy to see them preserved and given a new use rather than left to fall down.
The double decker Yusomoto Bridge connects all the different parts of the site together. There are good views from here and despite being in the centre of a busy city district there's greenery all around and the sound of gurgling water and birdsong.
Downstairs in the building there is a gift shop, the Ammo Restaurant, an amphitheatre, the GG Administrative Wing and a banyan tree shaped like a giraffe. The Ammo Restaurant is a Japanese Italian fusion restaurant.
Next I headed back downhill towards Hong Kong Park. On the way I remembered to look at the view where the man had been taking a photo. To my surprise he was still there and in exactly the same position, so were two nearby gardeners. That's when I realized these were all statues. They were incredibly life-like. I found a third one called Courting Couple, too. After that I started staring at anyone sitting around wondering if they were statues, too. It was all a little disconcerting!!! I later found out these statues are the work of American sculptor J Seward Johnson.
When I was finished with the realistic statues, I headed towards Hong Kong Park. I used to go here a lot, but I haven't been for a while and I was very interested to go because of having researched so much to do with the Second World War in Hong Kong. I knew there was a war memorial here and some more buildings that remain from the former Victoria Barracks.
The first historical building I visited was Flagstaff House which was built in 1846. This was initially called Headquarter House and was built in Greek revival style. This building was originally the residence of the Commander of British Forces in Hong Kong and continued in this role until 1978. Flagstaff House is the oldest surviving western style building in Hong Kong. It has been home to the Museum of Tea Ware since 1984. The contents of this museum were donated by Doctor K. S. Lo, the founder of the Vitasoy soya milk company, and a connoisseur of Chinese tea.
I liked the fire places in all the rooms though I was a bit unsure why they were all needed; it's usually pretty hot here. One blog I read talked about burning confidential documents in the fireplaces. Who knows? I'm not knowledgeable about Chinese teapots but rather like them. There are certainly plenty of them here. For me though I was more interested in the building than its contents.
When I had finished looking around Flagstaff House, I walked past some more colonial buildings and went to visit the Dr K.S. Lo Gallery. Inside this building downstairs there is a beautiful tearoom, called the Lock Cha Tearoom which is designed to resemble a scholar’s quarters. Traditional music performances are held here some Saturdays and Sundays. On weekdays there are talks on tea appreciation. Upstairs there is an exhibition of Chinese chops and ceramics. Again these were mainly donated by K. S. Lo.
Nearby these museums there is a war memorial to the soldiers killed during the Japanese invasion and occupation of Hong Kong in World War II. A plaque here particularly commemorates a member of the Winnipeg Grenadiers, John Osborne VC, who saved many of his fellow soldiers by throwing himself on a grenade thrown into the pillbox he was defending during the Battle of Hong Kong in 1941.
After viewing the war memorial, I strolled along the edge of the pond which is filled with flowers, fish and turtles. Behind the main pond there is a smaller pond and a large manmade waterfall.
I followed the path under the manmade waterfall to the conservatory. This has three parts: a gallery specialising in flower arrangements, mainly involving orchids, a dry desert area and a hot, humid area which proved to be cooler than outside.
The desert area seemed to have a wild west theme going on.
The humid area had a more jungle style theme. It also had a little stream with waterfalls crossed by many bridges and lots of colourful flowers.
Next I had a wander in the lovely tai chi garden. This has a lookout tower to climb up, but I didn't I was getting tired, and a monument to the medical staff at the forefront of the fight against SARS.
Next I visited the aviary. There are two sections: one where the birds are in cages and one where they can fly around freely in a huge enclosed space. Visitors just wander around with them. My photos aren't great as I was only using my phone and didn't have a powerful zoom.
I passed one more old barracks building which is now used as the administration office of the aviary then I walked into central. I visited Duddell Street to see the only remaining gas street lights in Hong Kong. Finally, I visited Starbucks in Baskerville House right next to the streetlights. I wanted to see this Starbucks as it's designed to look like a cha chaan teng or traditional Chinese teahouse.
Hi Irene, I had just finished cutting the grass in my back garden, and was just sitting watching Tv news of the floods in Germany and Belguim, and needed cheering up. Your photos did the trick. They are beautiful with your lovely text. I was with you. Thanks for posting. Alec
by alectrevor