First Hike of the New Season.
Following the Fat Mun Ancient Path.
27.09.2022 - 27.09.2022
I have been missing hiking so much, but all summer, it has just been too hot and too humid to even consider going on a long walk. To be honest, it's probably still a bit too hot, but nonetheless, yesterday I completed my first hike of the season. Naturally, I chose an easy one and made sure it was all downhill. I may as well ease myself back into it gently.
I started by going to Tung Chung and boarding the 23 bus to Ngong Ping and the Big Buddha. This is a very pretty journey which passes by beaches and a reservoir and climbs up a tall hill from where there are lovely views.
When I got off the bus at Ngong Ping Village, I passed through the huge gateway and walked past the statues of the twelve divine generals. These are the protectors of the Buddha and each one represents a different animal of the Chinese zodiac. There are some shops here, too selling incense and lucky charms and windmills, among other things.
Although it was not part of my hike, I could not resist taking a look inside Po Lin Monastery, which is one of the loveliest monasteries in Hong Kong. If I had come earlier, this would still have had its Mid-Autumn lanterns up, but unfortunately these had already been taken down. It did have lots of beautiful lotus blossoms in front of the main hall, though.
Po Lin Monastery was founded by three monks from Jiangsu Province in 1906. It was originally a much simpler structure and was known simply as The Big Hut. Nowadays there are two main halls open to the public. These are lavishly decorated and filled with golden Buddha images. Off to one side, there is a vegetarian restaurant. I have never eaten here, but it's supposed to be good. There's also a beautiful fish filled pond, which is best viewed from above.
There were also two exhibitions going on here. One was about the construction of the Big Buddha and had some interesting photos of the statue being built. I liked the shot of the Buddha's face being lifted into position.
Outside the monastery, I found a pond with lots of gorgeous water lilies in a variety of different colours. There were lots of other lovely flowers, too and good views back to the monastery.
The Big Buddha has been covered up for ages and I had heard it was open again. It turned out that it is possible to see him, and he's looking good after his renovation, but it's not yet possible to climb up to him, as the stairs in front of him are still being done. Not being able to climb hundreds of steps on a hot day wasn't much of a punishment. The Tian Tan Buddha, to give him his proper name, dates from 1993. He is thirty-four metres tall, made of bronze and took twelve years to build.
My intention was to hike the Fat Mun Ancient Path. I believe Fat Mun means something like Gate of Prosperity. The Fat Mun Ancient Path leads from Shek Mun Kap Village, just outside Tung Chung, to very close to Po Lin Monastery. On route this path passes by several monasteries and shrines. Some of these monasteries are still in use, while others have long since been abandoned. I believe the mountain the path ascends is considered holy by Buddhists.
To get to the start of my hike, I followed signs for the Wisdom Path. This took me past several ruined buildings, including the ruined tea garden restaurant.
Then instead of going all the way to the Wisdom Path, I turned left and followed a sign for the Po Lam Zen Monastery. I soon passed by the S.G. Davis Youth Hostel and some public toilets. I reached a place where several trails met up. It was easy to find the start of my path, as it involved going through the Fat Mun Gate.
The Fat Mun Ancient Trail is paved the whole way. Soon I was surrounded by greenery and peace and quiet. It was very very calming. There were several rocks with Buddhist inscriptions on them. There were lots of beautiful plants and some fruit trees. There were also some bamboo groves that creaked ominously in the wind.
Not too long after I started, I reached the Midway Pavilion. This pavilion is a useful resting place for those who choose to walk the path up the way rather than down.
I continued past the pavilion and kept catching glimpses of a view through the greenery. The best place to enjoy this from was a little viewing area with seats up ahead. This allows you to sit and enjoy stunning views over Chek Lap Kok Airport, Tung Chung and towards Castle Peak in the distance.
After enjoying the views, I continued onwards till I reached Po Lam Zen Monastery. Apparently Po Lam means Jewel of the Forest. This monastery was founded in 1955 by a young Buddhist monk whose dharma name means enlightenment. It is not possible to go inside this monastery, so I just walked around it to catch some glimpses of it. Next to the monastery there are several little vegetable gardens that are tended by the monks. This monastery is a world away from Po Lin Monastery and the Big Buddha, which can get very crowded. Here there is nothing but peace and tranquility.
From this monastery, I followed the signs for Tung Chung and within a hundred metres or so, I reached Fa Hong Monastery. This is no longer used, so I could just look at it through its gate. Opposite the monastery there is a little shrine where people still leave offerings.
From here I crossed a bridge over the Tei Tong Tsai Stream. From this point on the soothing sound of running water accompanied my hike.
Soon I came to the Fat Lam Monastery, which is still in use, but not open to the public. This monastery dates from 1932. I peered through some of its gates to catch glimpses of the buildings and gardens.
There were several abandoned monasteries around this area, too. Again I took a peek at them through their gates. It's a shame they are not being used. Hopefully, they will still be preserved.
At one point the Tei Tong Tsai Stream formed a lovely crystal clear pool with a tiny waterfall trickling out of the end of it.
After this I reached a shrine with pictures, statues and offerings. It was possible to take a rest here on one of the many seats. The sound of Buddhist chanting was being played at a very low volume inside the shrine. This added to the serenity of the area.
I then headed further down the mountain towards the last of the monasteries. There were views over Tung Chung from here including the cable car
The final monastery is called Lo Hon Monastery. This is located next to a cave, where monks used to go to meditate. It dates from the 1920's. This monastery had beautiful gardens. Apparently it is normally open to the public, but has closed its gates due to COVID, so I could not go inside. It is very colourful.
From here I walked down to the village of Shek Kap Mun and the end of the Fat Mun Ancient Trail. I saw a number 34 bus in front of me which I knew would take me back to Tung Chung. I had heard these were infrequent, but I wasn't sure I wanted it, as I hadn't looked at the village yet. I was still pondering what to do when it set off without me, so that was that decision made.
Shek Mun Kap Village has a little temple called Yuen Tan Temple and some shrines. I also saw a lovely tree here covered with purple flowers. This village looks like a peaceful place to live. After looking at it, I walked to Tung Chung Road where there were bus stops. I passed a stream on the way and there was another Buddhist monastery near the road. I can only find its name in Chinese, so don't know what it is called. Realising I wasn't that far from Tung Chung, I just decided to walk there. It was about another 2 km, making the whole walk around 7 km long.
On my walk to Tung Chung, I passed Tung Chung Fort which I have visited before, but I took another quick look nonetheless. This fort was built in the twelve century. Soldiers were stationed here to try and prevent the smuggling of salt.
Back in Tung Chung I jumped on a DB01R bus to get back home having thoroughly enjoyed my first hike of the season.
What a beautiful hike. This is one of the nicest I've been on with you, a gorgeous area. You're right, it would be nice if they would preserve all the now-unused monasteries. It is a cultural heritage and should be saved.
Loved all your flower pictures.
by Beausoleil