Underneath The Arches.

Bishop Hill Reservoir.

Before we headed off on holiday to the UK, I booked myself a free tour of Bishop Hill Reservoir in Sham Shui Po. I was really curious to see it as it has been in the news a lot in the last couple of years.

In December 2020 the Hong Kong Water Supplies Department began demolition work on the Ex-Sham Shui Po Service Reservoir that is located on top of Bishop Hill. This reservoir had not been used for many years due to structural issues and it was feared it may be unsafe. As the reservoir was covered over, noone knew what it would look like inside. As the workmen smashed through the upper layer, they were amazed to find a beautiful arched structure that looked like it would be more at home in Ancient Rome than in Sham Shui Po.

Fortunately, a woman surnamed Lam who runs a photographic group called 'Hong Kong Reminiscence' was able to take photos of the arches and post them online. There was a huge public outcry that such a beautiful piece of Hong Kong's heritage was being destroyed and the demolition work was speedily halted.

So where had this reservoir come from and why did noone know it was special?

If we go back far enough in time, the people who lived in Kowloon used to get their water from wells. However, by the beginning of the twentieth century the population of Kowloon had increased so much that the wells could no longer adequately provide for them, so the government began to create Kowloon Reservoir. The Bishop Hill Reservoir was built as a holding tank for some of the water from the Kowloon Reservoir.

Construction work on the Bishop Hill Reservoir began in 1903. First a hole was dug, then it was lined with concrete. Next granite pillars with brick arch vaulting were erected to support the roof. The completed tank was forty-six metres in diameter and six metres deep. It had a holding capacity of almost 8.3 million litres of water. Initially its water came from streams and rainwater until the Kowloon Reservoir was finally completed in 1910. As the completed tank was sealed over, few people knew how beautiful it was inside.

In 1984 the Bishop Hill Reservoir was disconnected from the water supplies network, as it had been rendered obsolete by more modern water tanks. It was then pretty much forgotten about. However, the presence of an underground reservoir was preventing Bishop Hill from being developed, thus the Water Supplies Department opted to demolish it and were as surprised as everyone else when it turned out to be a beautiful piece of architecture, its intricate design had long been forgotten.

The site has subsequently been strengthened and has now been declared a Grade One historic building.

The residents of Sham Shui Po and Shek Kip Mei where Bishop Hill is located are probably greatly relieved, that the site probably won't be developed, because they had been making use of Bishop Hill as some much needed green space. They have created areas with benches and shelters and exercise equipment and table-tennis facilities. They have also created several little shrines. This is one of the really good things about Hong Kong, as most people live in cramped environments, they make use of every bit of open space they can find around them. Good for them.

Table-tennis anyone?

My tour was scheduled to begin at 2pm. The booking came with reminders to be on time and threats that lateness would not be tolerated. I am paranoid about time enough even without this. Naturally I left ridiculously early to get there. I really think I have inherited a fear of being late from my dad. I was so early I even decided to get off the train in Cheung Sha Wan and check up to the Un Chau Estate Flower Tunnel. I totally mistimed this last year and the tunnel had no flowers when I visited. I feared this year it would have been at its peak when we were in the UK. On this visit it was very much past its best, but at least there was the odd flower still clinging to it.

Un Chau Estate Flower Tunnel almost past its best but not quite.

Un Chau Estate Flower Tunnel.

Un Chau Estate Flower Tunnel.

After a quick look here, I headed on to Shek Kip Mei. My instructions were to get to an assembly point outside Saint Francis of Assisi's English Primary School. This involved exiting through Shek Kip Mei Exit A, walking to the right, crossing the road at the lights and heading down Shek Kip Mei Street. I had factored in my usual getting lost, getting distracted, going the completely opposite way and to my surprise found the assembly point about two minutes after I had exited the station.

I decided I had better go for a walk. I ended up in Sham Shui Po next to the Garden Bakery. I have been in this area many times. I took a couple of photos to pass the time, then wandered back to the assembly point, still ridiculously early. By the time the organisers and other tour participants showed up, I was happily reading a book outside the school.

Colourful blocks on the Shek Kip Mei Public Housing Estates.

Shek Kip Mei Estate.

Kowloon Magistry

Anyway, I had to register my name and show my ID and have my temperature taken. I was then issued with a sticker to prove I was part of the tour group. To get to the reservoir, we all had to climb up Bishop Hill. It's only 282 feet high but it's already getting hot and sweaty here so to be honest some of us were struggling to get up the stairs.

I wasn't too bad as there were lots of colourful shrines to distract me from the pain.

Shrine.

Shrine.

Shrine.

Shrine.

Stairway on Bishop's Hill.

There were also some gorgeous Algerian irises.

Algerian irises.

Algerian irises.

Algerian irises.

At the top of the hill, we were allowed in to the reservoir. First we all had to sit down and hear about its history. It was actually quite interesting. Then we wandered around the top of the hill, looking at various bits and pieces to do with the reservoir.

A feature we all stood around looking at.

Then we were taken down into the water tank. Various features were pointed out to us such as the brickwork and the vaulting, then we were allowed to wander round and take photos.

Looking down into the reservoir.

Entrance to the water tank.

It was dark in there and there were warning cones to point out where there may be hazards people might fall over. One girl rather ironically tripped over a warning cone and ended up flat out on the floor. That's the sort of thing I might do!!!

Bishop Hill Reservoir.

Bishop Hill Reservoir.

Bishop Hill Reservoir.

Old water pipe.

Selfie in Bishop Hill Reservoir.

Bishop Hill Reservoir.

Bishop Hill Reservoir.

Bishop Hill Reservoir.

After a good look around we all went back upstairs for a group photo. I really enjoyed my visit. It was something quite different and unusual. Like a lot of unique things in Hong Kong it is booked up solidly for months, which is why I booked it well before going to the UK. I hope the novelty doesn't wear off and that the site can become a sort of off the beaten track, quirky tourist attraction.

One of the tour organisers pointed out that Saint Francis of Assisi English Primary School, where we had assembled at the start of the tour, has a beautiful church that is open to the public so I had a look in there before heading home. It was quiet and peaceful inside the church and a merciful escape from the humidity outside.

Inside the church.

Altar.

Stained glass windows.

Christ.

Madonna and child.

Saint Francis of Assisi.

After buying a few groceries, I headed back home.